In this photo, some body-boarders are able to catch some extreme waves. But what these “spunjahs” don’t know is that physics is happening with them. As these body-boarders begin to paddle, they are creating and gaining momentum. Then, as they catch a wave, their momentum increases as the wave pushes them towards shore. Momentum is defined as mass multiplied by the velocity.
Unfortunately, some of these men may run into the stone wall on the left side of the picture. If that were to happen, that process would be called impulse. Impulse is defined as the change in momentum. The change in momentum would be great since the body-boarder would be moving at a high speed then immediately stopped by the wall.
All in all, physics constantly occurs in everyday life. These men of the sea may not even know what is happening right before their eyes. Just remember, in bodyboarding and in physics, let nature do everything for you.
Physics by Mike 